槍→奥穂高ループ

2023年03月29日(水) ~ 2023年03月30日(木)

• GPS: 25:02
• 距離: 38.2km
• 登り: 4,271m
• 下り: 4,273m

コースタイム

1日目

• 山行: 10:32
• 休憩: 1:40
• 合計: 12:12

2:35 新穂高温泉バス停
2:38 2:40 中崎山荘 奥飛騨の湯
2:54 2:55 小鍋谷ゲート
3:30 3:32 穂高平小屋
4:21 4:21 白出沢出合
5:54 5:58 滝谷避難小屋
6:00 6:08 藤木レリーフ
6:49 7:11 槍平小屋
8:52 8:52 飛騨沢千丈乗越分岐
10:12 10:17 飛騨乗越
10:25 11:15 槍ヶ岳山荘
12:59 12:59 黄金平
13:08 13:09 二俣
13:47 13:47 大崩落地
14:38 14:43 涸沢
14:43 14:43 涸沢ヒュッテ
14:47 涸沢

2日目

• 山行: 8:32
• 休憩: 4:18
• 合計: 12:50

6:14 涸沢
8:34 9:22 穂高岳山荘
9:53 10:23 穂高岳
11:50 13:17 穂高岳山荘
14:00 14:21 荷継小屋跡
15:43 16:02 白出大滝
16:15 16:23 重太郎橋
17:07 17:48 白出沢出合
18:14 18:14 穂高平小屋
18:41 18:43 小鍋谷ゲート
18:58 18:58 新穂高温泉駅
19:02 19:04 新穂高温泉バス停
19:04 ゴール地点

天候

晴

アクセス

利用交通機関：

自家用車

コース状況／危険箇所等

白出沢のデブリやばすぎ、オススメない
天狗原までのトラバースギリギリ間に合った

写真

3/29 2:35

3/29 5:21

We had to carry our skis on our backs for a long way

3/29 6:00

This late in the season, I recommend entering the Sawa from Takizawa hut.

3/29 6:20

3/29 6:48

The Hut is open even in the winter

3/29 6:54

贅沢な行動食

3/29 9:08

This climb feels a lot longer with heavy backpacks

3/29 10:06

3/29 10:06

やっと稜線

3/29 10:24

3/29 10:44

My sandwich froze, but it was still nice to have homemade food near the summit

3/29 11:20

3/29 12:30

3/29 12:50

3/29 12:57

The snow was a little bit heavy, mostly packed wind buff. It got lighter as we descended

3/29 13:01

Exhausted

3/29 18:02

3/29 18:05

3/29 18:05

3/30 5:47

I forgot to take a tent picture but this will have to do

3/30 5:48

Karasawa was quite comfortable. There was no wind when we were setting up, but it blew in the middle of the night and caused the the Frozen condensation on the inside of our tent to fall on us in the middle of the night. I would recommend sleeping bag covers and building a high wall to protect from wind

3/30 6:16

3/30 6:36

Starting day two with a hard climb

3/30 6:47

3/30 8:35

3/30 9:11

3/30 9:48

3/30 9:53

3/30 9:53

Oh my God we made it

3/30 10:29

The direct Gully had similar heavy wind packed snow at the top, but got very hard in the middle. やっぱり北斜面はちょっと早い

3/30 10:29

3/30 10:30

3/30 10:43

3/30 10:43

Even though we skied very slowly, we still left nice lines in a beautiful Gully

3/30 10:52

3/30 11:45

Wet Avalanches were starting, so we decided to bootpack directly up the zeitengrad

3/30 11:50

3/30 12:16

3/30 13:30

The top of Shirade Sawa was still quite hard

3/30 13:30

From here it was debris hell. The debris was quite hard, so we had to walk quite a bit

3/30 14:26

Starting the Traverse over to the hiking trail around the waterfall

3/30 14:36

Yeah there's no way we're skiing down that

3/30 14:41

We tried to ski here, but it was very hard and onestone ended up falling and sliding down. Luckily, she was unharmed, but it was a scary experience

3/30 14:42

3/30 16:12

歩いた方が楽本当に

3/30 16:14

3/30 16:42

3/30 17:14

3/30 17:14

After Crossing this damn, we went a little bit too low and had to climb back up

3/30 18:28

3/30 19:03

目が死んでた

撮影機器：

Google Pixel 7 Pro 256GB SIMフリー Google

装備

個人装備

長袖シャツ 長袖インナー ハードシェル タイツ ズボン 靴下 グローブ アウター手袋 予備手袋 防寒着 雨具 ゲイター マフラー ネックウォーマー 日よけ帽子 着替え ブーツ ザック ビーコン スコップ ゾンデ 地図（地形図） コンパス 笛 ヘッドランプ 予備電池 GPS 筆記用具 ファーストエイドキット ガムテープ 常備薬 日焼け止め 携帯 時計 サングラス タオル ストック ナイフ ビンディング スキー板 シール 行動食 非常食 ハイドレーション 調理器具 ヘルメット シェラフ

共同装備

ツェルト 昼ご飯 行動食 非常食 ガスカートリッジ コンロ テントマット

備考

220ガス確認しなかった、途中で切れた。スペア持って行くべきだった

感想

onestone89

連休にどこに行くか悩んでいたとき、カーンがこの計画を持ってきてくれた。YSHR先生たちがワンデイ（！）してたものだが2dayでも十分ロング。でも美しい周回ルートなのでぜひ行きたいと思った。
出だしからいきなり上高地手前のトンネルでビーコンを忘れたことに気づく。カーンが顔の広さをきかせてくれて松本の知り合いにお借りすることができた。おしゃべりしながら林道をスタート。時折デブリに阻まれ板を外したりする。西面の深い谷はなかなか光が入らず、中の沢や大喰沢を横目に見ながら早く日光を浴びたいと思った。槍ヶ岳山荘に乗り上げると登山者2名と会う。カーンが具沢山のサンドイッチを作ってきてくれて、槍を見上げながらいただいた。特にこだわり無く時間的にも山頂はパス。槍沢は広大でめんつる。出だしは重めのパックだったが落とすと良い雪。このまま下まで行きたくなるが、天狗池方面へトラバースをかける。沢の一つ一つが大きく、近く見えてもかなりの距離がある。天狗池周辺は風もなく穏やかな地形。この辺りで泊まるのも良さそうだった。コルに乗り上げると北穂の北東面に目が釘付けになる。とてもきれいだが下部は崖だ。横尾本谷は下部こそデブリだが概ね快適なザラメで良い斜面だった。カーンが陽気に音楽をかけながら涸沢へ登り返し。夕方一度体が冷えてしまったが湯たんぽのおかげで眠れた。
翌日、モルゲンロートを眺めながら奥穂へ。下部はデブリが多く見えたので最初は乗り気では無かったが、上部はきれいなので奥穂直登ルンゼを滑って登り返すことにした。登りはきついが振り返れば景色が素晴らしいので楽しめる。穂高岳山荘あたりに荷物をデポし山頂へ。風は少しあるが厳しさは無い。厳冬期はきっとずっと厳しいんだろう。奥穂直登ルンゼなかなか硬く、横滑りをまじえてゆっくり降りていく。スケール、斜度、ロケーション全部良い。これがもしパウダーだったらどうかしちゃうな、と考えながらルンゼを抜けトラバース、ザイテンを登り返した。
少し昼寝して緩み待ちをし、白出沢へ。ここまでは順調だった。出だしこそきれいだったもののあっという間にデブリだらけになり、しかも硬い。斜度もあるのでなかなか進まない。どうにか白出大滝の高巻きまで来て、急な森の滑れそうなところを滑ることにする。ここで私が転倒し、そのまま滑落。ウィペットは手を離れ、私はなすがままにされて木に引っかかって止まった。両足ともスキーがついたまま木に絡まり、荷物も重くてなかなか動けない。どうにかスキーを外し、降りてきてくれたカーンにパス。なんとか這い上がれたが、どこも怪我をしなかったことが奇跡に思えた。そのままシートラで沢まで降りたが滝の下もデブリ地帯は永遠続いており、もう一生分のデブリを通ったような気がした。
少し降りすぎてしまったが、どうにか林道へ出て暗闇のなか下山。疲れ切ったが、やり切った！強いパートナーに感謝。白出沢はしばらくいいかな。

カーン

When onestone told me that she had a 2-day holiday that lined up exactly with my spring break, I knew that we had to do something stupid and crazy together. Originally, I was thinking about doing the Nihon Haute Route, but I couldn't find any partners that had the same break as me, and I had also promised one stone that I would do something with her. I'm not sure if I'm glad I chose this route, and I would not recommend it to anyone unless you decide to descend via kamikochi.

We started a little bit late because onestone had forgotten her beacon, so she had to return and borrow one from a friend in Matsumoto. Running on 2 hours of sleep, we were able to make it to the Yarigatake lodge in 8 hours, faster than I had done it last year as a day trip. Knowing where to enter the Sawa really helps, earlier in the season, you can probably enter from Chibidani, but when we tried it this time, it proved to be a little bit cumbersome. I would recommend entering from the Takizawa Emergency Hut this late in the season.

The ski down yarisawa was pleasant, a bit of wind buff at the top which got lighter as we descended. Unfortunately, we had to start traversing quite early, and we were barely able to make the transition to tengupara. We booted up a little bit to get to a flat point, change to skins, and skinned up to Tengu no Col. From here, we dropped into Migimata. This descent was the best of the trip, perfectly ripened corn snow from top to bottom with only moderate debris at the bottom of the gully. We were able to ski until Migimata met Karasawa, and skin up to the Karasawa campsite. It was already quite late by the time we had reached our campsite, so we quickly set up a few low snow walls, our Zelt, and started melting snow for water.

We were able to prepare 3 L of water in hot water bags to cook and sleep with, which kept us quite warm and helped to dry out our belongings. However, we ran out of gas for the morning, which was a little bit disappointing. I would recommend bringing a stronger stove, and two small cans of gas to keep in your jacket and switch out when the can in use gets cold so that you're always using a warm can.

The next day, we started a bit later. We wanted to skin as much as possible to conserve energy while climbing with heavy packs, so we climbed the face to the climber's right of the Zeitengrad. Eventually, the snow got too difficult to climb with skins due to wind slab, so we moved to the Zeitengrad and booted up to the lodge. We left our camp gear at the lodge and climbed to the summit. It was a bit scary with the ladders but there was a trace left by other climbers in the snow which we gladly used. We dropped in directly from the summit. The snow was similar to the snow near Yari - heavy wind buff. I fell and slid down a bit, but was able to stop myself. Luckily I was using leashes, and my skis were still attached to my boots. From the middle, the snow was very hard, and we carefully and slowly made our way down. After exiting the gully, we traversed over to the zeitengrad and bootpacked directly up it using crampons. It felt really good to be climbing with a light pack.

After reaching the Col, we collected our camp gear and took a peek at Shiradesawa. The snow was still very hard, so we decided to wait for half an hour for the noontime sun to soften up the snow. When we dropped, it was still hard, but a little bit better than before. We slowly made our way down to the debris field, and this is where things started going downhill. We were able to ski down to approximately where the hiking trail traverses around the big waterfall., with one or two downclimbs due to debris blocking our path. From there, we boot packed over to the summer hiking trail, up onto the ridge, and then around the waterfall. We decided to put on our skis part way through the forest because it looked skiable, but the forest had not gotten much sun and the snow was very hard. Onestone slipped and fell, and slid down about 50 vertical meters. Luckily, we had two-way radios, and I was able to check that she was okay before slowly making my way over to her. Although she had stabbed her whippet into the snow, it seems that it was ripped from her hands and left above her. I picked up the Whippet and her sunglasses which had also come off during the crash. Luckily, her skis got tangled up in some bushes at the edge of a cliff. Had they not been there, she would have suffered a very nasty fall. We were able to free her from the bushes, and climb back up, collecting everything that was lost in the crash. We were extremely lucky that the only casualties suffered were a few scrapes. From there, we boot packed around the ridge down to the end of the debris, put on our skis, and descended the last 200m to the road. We had to cross many dams, and I forgot to check which dam we were supposed to turn at, so we ended up descending a bit too far and needed to climb back up to the road. After we reached the road, we ski to the end of the snow and walked down, taking the hiking trail from the Hotakadaira hut. I don't really recommend this trail as it traverses along a hillside and is not very easy to walk. It probably didn't save us that much time.

We didn't really have many words when we got back down, mostly because of how exhausted we were, but I'm sure the feelings we had for this trip were mutual.

Onestone is an amazing human. I can't wait to ski with her again.